FREEONTOUR

Igoumenitsa

Arrival 6 hours late at 13:30.

We drive towards Albania and have already registered in Kasami. Then we get a big surprise at customs: it's closed due to a strike. We drive back to a nearby beach to wait for the next day.

Regionalbezirk Thesprotia, Epirus - Westmakedonien, Griechenland

39° 30' 16.3" N 20° 15' 54.3" E

39.5045294 20.2650921

☍ 22,7 km ( 25 min.)

Strand bei Sagiada

There is a strike at the border. We can't cross the border until the next day. So we go back a bit and camp on the beach at Sagiada.

We only notice that the sign actually still says NO when we leave...

Σαγιάδα - Μαυρομάτι, Δημοτική Ενότητα Σαγιάδας, Regionalbezirk Thesprotia, Epirus - Westmakedonien, Griechenland

39° 38' 12.3" N 20° 9' 58.7" E

39.6367409 20.1663037

☍ 6,1 km ( 6 min.)

Day

Grenzübergang Sagiada

Border crossing Greece - Albania.

Stress-free and without problems: ID, vehicle registration and green insurance card are completely sufficient.

ΕΟ18, Δημοτική Ενότητα Σαγιάδας, Regionalbezirk Thesprotia, Epirus - Westmakedonien, Griechenland

39° 39' 7" N 20° 9' 30.2" E

39.6519386 20.1583803

☍ 20,9 km ( 57 min.)

Butrint - Xarrë

After the small ferry we visit Butrint: very impressive and absolutely recommended - good descriptions of the ancient monuments. We also recommend the nearby restaurant Hotel Livia, where we have a wonderful meal on the terrace.

SH81, Xarrë, Qark Vlora, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

39° 44' 43.3" N 20° 1' 4.7" E

39.7453564 20.0179584

☍ 5,1 km ( 8 min.)

Ksamil Caravan Camping

Camping Ksamil:

Cozy campsite with very friendly owners. Several pitches with shade. We are greeted with a coffee and a lot of friendliness! Very clean sanitary facilities. Everything is very clean and furnished with love.

The location of the campsite is a bit unusual: somewhere in a residential area with construction going on all around - but we didn't hear anything: quiet and relaxing.

Rruga Pelog, Ksamil, Qark Vlora, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

39° 46' 41.1" N 20° 0' 21.3" E

39.7780782 20.0059305

☍ 12,0 km ( 21 min.)

Day

Sarandë

We drive into Sarrande because we still need an Albanian SIM card. At first we can't find one in the center... there is also a huge traffic chaos because an old house is burning in the middle of the city (it was probably burned down to make room for something new).

On the main road we find a kiosk where we get a SIM card: This in the iPhone and from now on I have an Albanian phone number, as well as 40GB data volume ... for just under 30€

SH81, Sarandë, Qark Vlora, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

39° 52' 22.7" N 20° 0' 49.6" E

39.8729634 20.0137736

☍ 19,6 km ( 28 min.)

Krongj (Blue Eye)

You stop at a large parking lot in front of the reservoir, then pay a fee of 1€ and we walk to Blue Eye (you could also rent an electric scooter, but that seems a bit excessive to us).

Syri i Kaltër, Krongj, Qark Vlora, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

39° 55' 1" N 20° 11' 8.4" E

39.9169553 20.1856690

☍ 1,5 km ( 3 min.)

Krongj - Blue Eye

very nice - relatively touristy, but in early April it is still quiet

Syri i Kaltër, Krongj, Qark Vlora, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

39° 55' 22.9" N 20° 11' 43.6" E

39.9230409 20.1954363

☍ 15,5 km ( 28 min.)

Dropull i Sipërm

SH99, Dropull i Sipërm, Qark Gjirokastra, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

39° 56' 15.8" N 20° 16' 2.9" E

39.9377148 20.2674725

☍ 22,1 km ( 28 min.)

Camping Gjirokaster

Small campsite near a restaurant. Pitches with shade. Showers and toilets are clean. Chemical toilets and grey water cannot be emptied. The operators were friendly and helpful.

Rruga Gjirokaster-Valare, 6013, Topullaraj,Gjirokaster, Albanien

40° 6' 4.4" N 20° 9' 1.5" E

40.1012200 20.1504300

☍ 2,9 km ( 4 min.)

Day

Gjirokastër

SH4, Gjirokastër, Qark Gjirokastra, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 4' 39.5" N 20° 9' 3.5" E

40.0776484 20.1509600

☍ 1,3 km ( 2 min.)

Gjirokastër

We can park below the castle and explore the city. Ideal place in front of the newly built underground car park.

On foot we explore Gjirokaster Castle and the Skenduli House

Rruga Gjin Zenebishti, Gjirokastër, Qark Gjirokastra, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 4' 31.7" N 20° 8' 27.5" E

40.0754802 20.1409690

☍ 25,1 km ( 47 min.)

Zagorie Camping Cajupi

On a plateau - totally quiet and lonely. The 'groundskeeper' hardly speaks any English but is a warm and friendly guy who is willing to read your every wish from your lips.

It 'even' has a toilet and shower ...

Rruga e Cajupit, Zagorie, Qark Gjirokastra, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 10' 59.9" N 20° 11' 6" E

40.1832955 20.1850089

☍ 45,1 km (1 hrs. 27 min.)

Day

Libohovë se Kryqit

beautiful church - somewhat (very) narrow access ... but it's possible!

Qark Gjirokastra, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 4' 26" N 20° 17' 26.8" E

40.0738849 20.2907669

☍ 9,7 km ( 25 min.)

Libohovë

Qark Gjirokastra, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 2' 0.2" N 20° 15' 27.5" E

40.0333785 20.2576425

☍ 0,9 km ( 2 min.)

Libohovë

Mountain village with restaurant under a huge plane tree, as well as a castle complex a little above with a beautiful view

SH96, Libohovë, Qark Gjirokastra, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 1' 55.1" N 20° 15' 45.6" E

40.0319647 20.2626618

☍ 63,8 km (1 hrs. 38 min.)

Qendër Tepelenë

'Circular route from Tepelene: adventurous and scenically magnificent. Good road, although sometimes rather narrow

Qark Gjirokastra, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 19' 6.5" N 19° 53' 41.4" E

40.3184782 19.8948270

☍ 25,0 km ( 57 min.)

40.2150, 19.9592

Camping right on the road doesn't appeal to us and we drive back to the main valley

40° 12' 54" N 19° 57' 33.1" E

40.2150000 19.9592000

☍ 26,0 km ( 54 min.)

Memaliaj

Memo Nexhipi, Memaliaj, Qark Gjirokastra, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 21' 11.9" N 19° 58' 56.9" E

40.3533169 19.9824771

☍ 0,8 km ( 2 min.)

Memaliaj

Pitch right on the river bank: brilliant location. Shower and toilet in the restaurant next door

Kastriot Lika, Memaliaj, Qark Gjirokastra, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 20' 53.5" N 19° 59' 11" E

40.3481992 19.9863940

☍ 0,7 km ( 2 min.)

Day

Memaliaj

Tafil Buzi, Memaliaj, Qark Gjirokastra, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 21' 7.3" N 19° 58' 58.1" E

40.3520305 19.9828190

☍ 31,5 km ( 39 min.)

Bashkia Këlcyrë

SH75, Bashkia Këlcyrë, Qark Gjirokastra, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 18' 47.9" N 20° 11' 31.3" E

40.3133154 20.1920350

☍ 4,9 km ( 4 min.)

Käserei im Bunker - Baxho Meshini "Bunkeri"

Cheese factory in the bunker

good cheese shop (or shop with good cheese!) with friendly owners.

SH75, Qendër Piskovë, Qark Gjirokastra, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 17' 25.1" N 20° 14' 20.5" E

40.2902999 20.2390261

☍ 25,5 km ( 36 min.)

Ogdunan - Camping Vjosa Explorer

40.2406, 20.4290 (P4N: 6404)

The place is located 300 meters from the thermal spring of Benja, the Ottoman bridge of Katiu and the gorge of the river Lengarica.

Only 5 minutes to the springs. Nice young operators who still have a lot planned. Beautiful starry sky!

Ura e Kadiut, Ogdunan, Qark Gjirokastra, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 14' 25.5" N 20° 25' 45.1" E

40.2404213 20.4291861

☍ 1,5 km ( 3 min.)

Ogdunan - Thermalquellen

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lengarica

Ura e Kadiut, Ogdunan, Qark Gjirokastra, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 14' 44.2" N 20° 26' 18.1" E

40.2456174 20.4383578

☍ 41,9 km ( 48 min.)

Day

Leskovik

We reach Leskovik on a generally bad road (SS75 on the section: Carcovë - Leskovik)

The scenery is magnificent

Qark Korça, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 9' 10.5" N 20° 35' 58.8" E

40.1529253 20.5996528

☍ 15,9 km ( 17 min.)

Camping Farma Sotira

A very good campsite, or stop-off point, fresh trout ponds on site. Small shower, toilet. There is also a restaurant on site.

P4N: 7402

freshly caught trout ... mmmh

National road Leskovik-Erseke km 15, 7402, Komuna Leskovik, Albanien

40° 12' 51" N 20° 38' 46.9" E

40.2141600 20.6463600

☍ 22,3 km ( 34 min.)

Gedenkstätte: Qendër Ersekë Boroves

impressive memorial to a massacre from the Second World War, where the population of an entire village was wiped out 'in retaliation'!

Book p. 431

SH75, Qendër Ersekë, Qark Korça, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 18' 36.2" N 20° 39' 7.5" E

40.3100671 20.6520929

☍ 32,3 km ( 32 min.)

Hügelgräber - Mollaj: Tuma e Kamenices

ca 8km before Korca burial mound (p.457)

One of the largest excavation sites, but still quite manageable. Exhibition beautifully arranged,

We were looked after and given gifts by a very nice lady.

Qark Korça, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 32' 38.3" N 20° 43' 31.3" E

40.5439593 20.7253611

☍ 7,3 km ( 11 min.)

Camping Korca

Good, lovingly prepared campsite with hospitable operators.

On the homepage it sounds like this:

... Welcome to Camping Korca, your premier destination for an unforgettable camping experience in the heart of Korce town. Nestled in the stunning scenery of the Korce region, our campsite offers the perfect blend of natural beauty, comfort and relaxation .

Rruga Kolonjës, Drenovë, Qark Korça, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 35' 26.9" N 20° 46' 22.4" E

40.5908153 20.7728889

☍ 2,0 km ( 2 min.)

Day

Korçë

We ride our bikes to Korce and explore the city on foot...

We skip the famous brewery because we prefer wine anyway.

Rruga Antoni Athanas, Korçë, Qark Korça, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 36' 31.4" N 20° 46' 33.4" E

40.6087155 20.7759415

☍ 19,8 km ( 33 min.)

Day

Voskopojë

Unfortunately, all churches are closed (except for one). We drive up to the monastery Monastiri Shen Prodhromit, which works out without any problems despite the description saying otherwise.

Lunch in the village

Book S 453 - there must be very interesting churches there, among other things

(Info in the Tourist Center in Korce, which was still closed)

SH63, Voskopojë, Qark Korça, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 37' 59.6" N 20° 35' 25.6" E

40.6332121 20.5904497

☍ 2,3 km ( 6 min.)

Voskopojë Kloster Shen Prodhomit

Shen Prodhomit Monastery (p.455)

We drive up to the monastery, which works without any problems despite the description saying otherwise. However, the monastery is currently (April 2024) under construction.

This is called “Manastiri i Shën Prodhromit” by the locals and is located in the middle of the trees. With stunning views of Voskopoja and a fountain that the locals believe to be “holy water” that some of them bottle and even take back to the US or Canada. It is a place to go

Rruga Nektar Terpo, Voskopojë, Qark Korça, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 38' 44.3" N 20° 36' 10" E

40.6456282 20.6027776

☍ 21,1 km ( 37 min.)

Korçë

Rruga Muzakajt, Korçë, Qark Korça, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 37' 32" N 20° 46' 18" E

40.6255504 20.7716660

☍ 7,4 km ( 11 min.)

Teqeja: "Baba Abdulla" Melçan-Korçë

This memorial/tomb/'monastery' towers over the plain... we're going to visit it:

great view - but we didn't find out what it was for

Qark Korça, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 38' 47.3" N 20° 43' 39.4" E

40.6464858 20.7276135

☍ 10,8 km ( 15 min.)

Maliq

SH71, Maliq, Qark Korça, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 42' 36.2" N 20° 41' 49.7" E

40.7100509 20.6971288

☍ 40,2 km (1 hrs. 2 min.)

SH 71: Gopesh

The SH 71: mostly well developed with some bumpy sections (construction work is underway).

The old road disappears into the reservoir... the new 'bypass' is a constant up and down, with great scenery and is easy to drive.

SH71, Gopesh, Qark Korça, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 42' 21.6" N 20° 23' 39.7" E

40.7059872 20.3943567

☍ 34,8 km ( 51 min.)

Gramsh

p. 491

SH71, Gramsh, Qarku i Elbasanit, Zentral-Albanien, Albanien

40° 51' 52.1" N 20° 11' 8.8" E

40.8644828 20.1857762

☍ 17,2 km ( 30 min.)

Holtes Canyon - Zavalinë

A great place - also to stay overnight.

We didn't go into the canyon itself...but it's supposed to be very beautiful!

Qarku i Elbasanit, Zentral-Albanien, Albanien

40° 55' 41" N 20° 12' 32.7" E

40.9280608 20.2090767

☍ 28,2 km ( 44 min.)

Day

Cërrik

SH59, Cërrik, Qarku i Elbasanit, Zentral-Albanien, Albanien

41° 1' 26.5" N 19° 59' 23.4" E

41.0240173 19.9898289

☍ 18,2 km ( 30 min.)

Bar Restaurant Byshek - Shushicë

nice place near springs.

Restaurant - good to linger

Qarku i Elbasanit, Zentral-Albanien, Albanien

41° 6' 3.1" N 20° 7' 28.3" E

41.1008576 20.1245319

☍ 7,3 km ( 15 min.)

Elbasan Castle

We walk around the town a bit... but we are not city visitors. The castle itself seems to be a good hotel. The church within the walls is not accessible, but the mosque is.

Book p. 481

Rruga Janaq Kilica, Elbasan, Qarku i Elbasanit, Zentral-Albanien, Albanien

41° 6' 47" N 20° 4' 55.1" E

41.1130662 20.0819683

☍ 2,1 km ( 4 min.)

Elbasan Nazireshe Moschee

We visit the Naziresha Mosque, which we imagined to be completely different from the descriptions

https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naziresha-Moschee

Rruga Zogu i Parë, Elbasan, Qarku i Elbasanit, Zentral-Albanien, Albanien

41° 6' 18.3" N 20° 5' 11.6" E

41.1050705 20.0865499

☍ 5,4 km ( 7 min.)

Fikas Bar Camping Landi

P4N

Despite good descriptions on P4N, we were not at all happy with the location and drove on

Peqin - Elbasan, Fikas, Qarku i Elbasanit, Zentral-Albanien, Albanien

41° 6' 2.2" N 20° 1' 42.1" E

41.1006213 20.0283657

☍ 34,5 km ( 54 min.)

Selitë

Qarku i Elbasanit, Zentral-Albanien, Albanien

40° 53' 17.2" N 19° 58' 38.5" E

40.8881130 19.9773600

☍ 29,1 km ( 49 min.)

Berat

Good parking space on the 'orthodox side' right next to the pedestrian bridge. Very helpful operators.

We stay here for 2 nights and rent a small car to

Lively city with various restaurants

Rruga Shpiragu, Berat, Qark Berat, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 42' 8.4" N 19° 56' 37.6" E

40.7023292 19.9437777

☍ 42,7 km (1 hrs. 30 min.)

Day

Teqeja e Abaz Aliut Bogovë

Visit to a pilgrimage site high on the mountain (Albanians make the pilgrimage by car).

In August it must be teeming with people up there... now it was quiet.

On the way up: huge quarries

Qark Berat, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 37' 23.4" N 20° 11' 37.4" E

40.6231625 20.1937126

☍ 12,0 km ( 53 min.)

Bogovë

On rather small roads we reach Bogove (lunch stop) with our rental car

Poligoni, Bogovë, Qark Berat, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 34' 16.6" N 20° 8' 48.1" E

40.5712647 20.1466867

☍ 27,7 km ( 46 min.)

Kanionet e Osumit Zabërzan

On the way to the end of the valley (for normal cars) there are great views into the gorge

... and everything back again - a rather long trip

SH72, Zabërzan i Ri, Qark Berat, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 26' 21.5" N 20° 16' 49.9" E

40.4392939 20.2805307

☍ 131,5 km (3 hrs. 21 min.)

Day

Hekal - Byllis

On the way to Byllis we come across oil fields with small drilling rigs (it also smells a bit of oil)

After visiting the ruins we eat in the archaeological park

S231

https://apolloniaarchaeologicalpark.al/en/byllis-history/

Rruga e Bylis-it, Hekal, Qark Fier, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 32' 35.5" N 19° 44' 18.3" E

40.5431874 19.7384293

☍ 42,9 km ( 51 min.)

Pojan Apollonia

A bit confusing to get there... but OK.

https://apolloniaarchaeologicalpark.al/en/home/

Book p.222

Rruga Aleksandria, Pojan, Qark Fier, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 43' 24.1" N 19° 28' 18.6" E

40.7233619 19.4718283

☍ 23,4 km ( 27 min.)

Albanica vinery

Albanica Winery surrounded by vineyards with a fantastic view. Nice and good restaurant with small shop where you can buy wine and olive oil from their own production and enjoy homemade organic food. Very nice owner speaks perfect English. From the village of Kolonjë Ardenice drive up the hill to the monastery church until you see the signs to Albanica Winery and from there follow the gravel road.

Qark Fier, Süd-Albanien, Albanien

40° 50' 25.9" N 19° 35' 52.5" E

40.8405263 19.5979075

☍ 68,3 km (1 hrs. 5 min.)

Day

Durrës

We drove past Durres: a horrible city from the motorway! Maybe it's nicer in the centre - we don't know.

Since the weather is getting worse and we definitely want to experience the Koman ferry (not in the rain) ... we drive quickly north.

Durrës is a port city on the Adriatic Sea in western Albania, west of the capital Tirana. One of the city's landmarks is the huge Roman amphitheater. Nearby is a 9th-century church with mosaic-decorated walls. The Archaeological Museum displays finds from the Greek, Hellenic and Roman eras. Durrës' wide beach has shallow water and is not far from King Zogu's former 20th-century summer villa.

The amphitheater, which was discovered by chance during construction work in 1966, is worth seeing.

Ruga Doganes, Durrës, Qark Durrës, Nord-Albanien, Albanien

41° 18' 54" N 19° 27' 6.4" E

41.3150029 19.4517896

☍ 65,7 km ( 55 min.)

Fushë-Kuqe

Lunch stop at the Patokut lagoon: very beautiful and touristy!

SH35, Fushë-Kuqe, Qark Lezha, Nord-Albanien, Albanien

41° 38' 11.6" N 19° 35' 23.6" E

41.6365666 19.5898910

☍ 91,2 km (2 hrs. 15 min.)

Temal

P4N42.0907, 19.8143

Camping Komani is located at the entrance to Komani, where you will find peace and quiet, a great view and clean air.

very friendly hosts.

SH25, Temal, Qark Shkodra, Nord-Albanien, Albanien

42° 5' 34.7" N 19° 48' 55.1" E

42.0929670 19.8152992

☍ 2,9 km ( 7 min.)

Day

Temal

absolutely sensational

https://komanilakeferry.com/

SH25, Temal, Qark Shkodra, Nord-Albanien, Albanien

42° 6' 30.8" N 19° 49' 34.7" E

42.1085606 19.8262945

☍ 0,0 km ( )

Komani Lake Ferry

Departure port: Komani Lake

Qark Shkodra, Nord-Albanien, Albanien

42.1086434 19.8261515

Arrival port: Breg-Lumi

Qark Kukës, Nord-Albanien, Albanien

42.269870920.0194175

☍ 12,0 km ( 53 min.)

Breg-Lumi

Ferry arrival ... A great and atmospheric ferry ride. The weather held up - it was dry ... the sun shone at times, but a great experience: From boarding to the journey to the destination

PS: If you are hesitant about the chaos at the departure: The motorhome (not only ours) was safely secured by a local employee with the help of what felt like 10 helpers

reversed onto the ferry... around corners - through gaps - over ledges.

https://youtu.be/L76XwnxEToc

Qark Kukës, Nord-Albanien, Albanien

42° 15' 58.1" N 20° 0' 56" E

42.2661326 20.0155549

☍ 62,3 km (1 hrs. 20 min.)

Flet

uphill... downhill... As expected, the weather gets worse... but the scenery is simply amazing!

SH22, Flet, Qark Shkodra, Nord-Albanien, Albanien

42° 6' 1.2" N 20° 6' 49.3" E

42.1003314 20.1137009

☍ 56,3 km (1 hrs. 18 min.)

Bashkia Kukës

Meanwhile, there is a newer bridge, which is still under construction.

We leave the town itself to the left, or rather we drive straight through Kukës... to the recommended parking spot in P4N with a great view, however, we only find large-scale driving bans.

We drive past the airfield further south (exciting history of the airport ... https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flughafen_Kuk%C3%ABs

E 851, Bashkia Kukës, Qark Kukës, Nord-Albanien, Albanien

42° 4' 31.9" N 20° 24' 24.2" E

42.0755174 20.4067252

☍ 29,8 km ( 36 min.)

Bashkia Kukës

We spend the night in the parking lot of a BILLA bar/restaurant: nice owners, but a lot of smoke (nicotine) in the restaurant, which we are no longer used to.

... there would still be a Mercedes for hobbyists

Qark Kukës, Nord-Albanien, Albanien

41° 53' 37.4" N 20° 24' 55.5" E

41.8937199 20.4154192

☍ 22,9 km ( 30 min.)

Day

Sllatinë

War memorial

Qark Dibra, Nord-Albanien, Albanien

41° 47' 58.8" N 20° 23' 36.5" E

41.7996714 20.3934668

☍ 39,5 km ( 57 min.)

Grenze zu Nordmazedonien: Bllatë e Sipërme

stress-free border crossing: ID, vehicle registration, green insurance card

SH44, Bllatë e Sipërme, Qark Dibra, Nord-Albanien, Albanien

41° 33' 39.5" N 20° 29' 37.4" E

41.5609619 20.4937195

☍ 58,3 km (1 hrs. 1 min.)

Pizzeria in Struga - Струга

It is raining and rather cold. In Struga we go to the nearest pizzeria

Борис Кидрич, Струга, Region Südwesten, Nordmazedonien

41° 10' 28.3" N 20° 40' 42.6" E

41.1745254 20.6785116

☍ 49,3 km (1 hrs. 3 min.)

Camping Arbi

It is raining and so we drive through Ohrid and along the whole of Lake Ohrid until we are just behind the border in Albania: cozy - very clean campsite