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Albania - criss-cross


Travelogue
Arrival 6 hours late at 13:30.
We drive towards Albania and have already registered in Kasami. Then we get a big surprise at customs: it's closed due to a strike. We drive back to a nearby beach to wait for the next day.
Arrival 6 hours late at 13:30.
We drive towards Albania and have already registered in Kasami. Then we get a big surprise at customs: it's closed due to a strike. We drive back to a nearby beach to wait for the next day.
There is a strike at the border. We can't cross the border until the next day. So we go back a bit and camp on the beach at Sagiada.
We only notice that the sign actually still says NO when we leave...



There is a strike at the border. We can't cross the border until the next day. So we go back a bit and camp on the beach at Sagiada.
We only notice that the sign actually still says NO when we leave...
Border crossing Greece - Albania.
Stress-free and without problems: ID, vehicle registration and green insurance card are completely sufficient.
Border crossing Greece - Albania.
Stress-free and without problems: ID, vehicle registration and green insurance card are completely sufficient.
After the small ferry we visit Butrint: very impressive and absolutely recommended - good descriptions of the ancient monuments. We also recommend the nearby restaurant Hotel Livia, where we have a wonderful meal on the terrace.



After the small ferry we visit Butrint: very impressive and absolutely recommended - good descriptions of the ancient monuments. We also recommend the nearby restaurant Hotel Livia, where we have a wonderful meal on the terrace.
Camping Ksamil:
Cozy campsite with very friendly owners. Several pitches with shade. We are greeted with a coffee and a lot of friendliness! Very clean sanitary facilities. Everything is very clean and furnished with love.
The location of the campsite is a bit unusual: somewhere in a residential area with construction going on all around - but we didn't hear anything: quiet and relaxing.



Camping Ksamil:
Cozy campsite with very friendly owners. Several pitches with shade. We are greeted with a coffee and a lot of friendliness! Very clean sanitary facilities. Everything is very clean and furnished with love.
The location of the campsite is a bit unusual: somewhere in a residential area with construction going on all around - but we didn't hear anything: quiet and relaxing.
We drive into Sarrande because we still need an Albanian SIM card. At first we can't find one in the center... there is also a huge traffic chaos because an old house is burning in the middle of the city (it was probably burned down to make room for something new).
On the main road we find a kiosk where we get a SIM card: This in the iPhone and from now on I have an Albanian phone number, as well as 40GB data volume ... for just under 30€


We drive into Sarrande because we still need an Albanian SIM card. At first we can't find one in the center... there is also a huge traffic chaos because an old house is burning in the middle of the city (it was probably burned down to make room for something new).
On the main road we find a kiosk where we get a SIM card: This in the iPhone and from now on I have an Albanian phone number, as well as 40GB data volume ... for just under 30€
You stop at a large parking lot in front of the reservoir, then pay a fee of 1€ and we walk to Blue Eye (you could also rent an electric scooter, but that seems a bit excessive to us).
You stop at a large parking lot in front of the reservoir, then pay a fee of 1€ and we walk to Blue Eye (you could also rent an electric scooter, but that seems a bit excessive to us).
very nice - relatively touristy, but in early April it is still quiet




very nice - relatively touristy, but in early April it is still quiet
Small campsite near a restaurant. Pitches with shade. Showers and toilets are clean. Chemical toilets and grey water cannot be emptied. The operators were friendly and helpful.


Small campsite near a restaurant. Pitches with shade. Showers and toilets are clean. Chemical toilets and grey water cannot be emptied. The operators were friendly and helpful.
We can park below the castle and explore the city. Ideal place in front of the newly built underground car park.
On foot we explore Gjirokaster Castle and the Skenduli House



We can park below the castle and explore the city. Ideal place in front of the newly built underground car park.
On foot we explore Gjirokaster Castle and the Skenduli House
On a plateau - totally quiet and lonely. The 'groundskeeper' hardly speaks any English but is a warm and friendly guy who is willing to read your every wish from your lips.
It 'even' has a toilet and shower ...


On a plateau - totally quiet and lonely. The 'groundskeeper' hardly speaks any English but is a warm and friendly guy who is willing to read your every wish from your lips.
It 'even' has a toilet and shower ...
beautiful church - somewhat (very) narrow access ... but it's possible!



beautiful church - somewhat (very) narrow access ... but it's possible!
Mountain village with restaurant under a huge plane tree, as well as a castle complex a little above with a beautiful view




Mountain village with restaurant under a huge plane tree, as well as a castle complex a little above with a beautiful view
'Circular route from Tepelene: adventurous and scenically magnificent. Good road, although sometimes rather narrow



'Circular route from Tepelene: adventurous and scenically magnificent. Good road, although sometimes rather narrow
Camping right on the road doesn't appeal to us and we drive back to the main valley

Camping right on the road doesn't appeal to us and we drive back to the main valley
Pitch right on the river bank: brilliant location. Shower and toilet in the restaurant next door

Pitch right on the river bank: brilliant location. Shower and toilet in the restaurant next door

Cheese factory in the bunker
good cheese shop (or shop with good cheese!) with friendly owners.

Cheese factory in the bunker
good cheese shop (or shop with good cheese!) with friendly owners.
The place is located 300 meters from the thermal spring of Benja, the Ottoman bridge of Katiu and the gorge of the river Lengarica.
Only 5 minutes to the springs. Nice young operators who still have a lot planned. Beautiful starry sky!

The place is located 300 meters from the thermal spring of Benja, the Ottoman bridge of Katiu and the gorge of the river Lengarica.
Only 5 minutes to the springs. Nice young operators who still have a lot planned. Beautiful starry sky!



We reach Leskovik on a generally bad road (SS75 on the section: Carcovë - Leskovik)
The scenery is magnificent



We reach Leskovik on a generally bad road (SS75 on the section: Carcovë - Leskovik)
The scenery is magnificent
A very good campsite, or stop-off point, fresh trout ponds on site. Small shower, toilet. There is also a restaurant on site.
P4N: 7402
freshly caught trout ... mmmh


A very good campsite, or stop-off point, fresh trout ponds on site. Small shower, toilet. There is also a restaurant on site.
P4N: 7402
freshly caught trout ... mmmh
impressive memorial to a massacre from the Second World War, where the population of an entire village was wiped out 'in retaliation'!
Book p. 431


impressive memorial to a massacre from the Second World War, where the population of an entire village was wiped out 'in retaliation'!
Book p. 431
ca 8km before Korca burial mound (p.457)
One of the largest excavation sites, but still quite manageable. Exhibition beautifully arranged,We were looked after and given gifts by a very nice lady.


ca 8km before Korca burial mound (p.457)
One of the largest excavation sites, but still quite manageable. Exhibition beautifully arranged,We were looked after and given gifts by a very nice lady.
Good, lovingly prepared campsite with hospitable operators.
On the homepage it sounds like this:
... Welcome to Camping Korca, your premier destination for an unforgettable camping experience in the heart of Korce town. Nestled in the stunning scenery of the Korce region, our campsite offers the perfect blend of natural beauty, comfort and relaxation .


Good, lovingly prepared campsite with hospitable operators.
On the homepage it sounds like this:
... Welcome to Camping Korca, your premier destination for an unforgettable camping experience in the heart of Korce town. Nestled in the stunning scenery of the Korce region, our campsite offers the perfect blend of natural beauty, comfort and relaxation .
We ride our bikes to Korce and explore the city on foot...
We skip the famous brewery because we prefer wine anyway.




We ride our bikes to Korce and explore the city on foot...
We skip the famous brewery because we prefer wine anyway.
Unfortunately, all churches are closed (except for one). We drive up to the monastery Monastiri Shen Prodhromit, which works out without any problems despite the description saying otherwise.
Lunch in the village
Book S 453 - there must be very interesting churches there, among other things
(Info in the Tourist Center in Korce, which was still closed)




Unfortunately, all churches are closed (except for one). We drive up to the monastery Monastiri Shen Prodhromit, which works out without any problems despite the description saying otherwise.
Lunch in the village
Book S 453 - there must be very interesting churches there, among other things
(Info in the Tourist Center in Korce, which was still closed)
Shen Prodhomit Monastery (p.455)
We drive up to the monastery, which works without any problems despite the description saying otherwise. However, the monastery is currently (April 2024) under construction.
This is called “Manastiri i Shën Prodhromit” by the locals and is located in the middle of the trees. With stunning views of Voskopoja and a fountain that the locals believe to be “holy water” that some of them bottle and even take back to the US or Canada. It is a place to go



Shen Prodhomit Monastery (p.455)
We drive up to the monastery, which works without any problems despite the description saying otherwise. However, the monastery is currently (April 2024) under construction.
This is called “Manastiri i Shën Prodhromit” by the locals and is located in the middle of the trees. With stunning views of Voskopoja and a fountain that the locals believe to be “holy water” that some of them bottle and even take back to the US or Canada. It is a place to go
This memorial/tomb/'monastery' towers over the plain... we're going to visit it:
great view - but we didn't find out what it was for




This memorial/tomb/'monastery' towers over the plain... we're going to visit it:
great view - but we didn't find out what it was for
The SH 71: mostly well developed with some bumpy sections (construction work is underway).
The old road disappears into the reservoir... the new 'bypass' is a constant up and down, with great scenery and is easy to drive.






The SH 71: mostly well developed with some bumpy sections (construction work is underway).
The old road disappears into the reservoir... the new 'bypass' is a constant up and down, with great scenery and is easy to drive.
p. 491
p. 491
A great place - also to stay overnight.
We didn't go into the canyon itself...but it's supposed to be very beautiful!


A great place - also to stay overnight.
We didn't go into the canyon itself...but it's supposed to be very beautiful!
nice place near springs.
Restaurant - good to linger


nice place near springs.
Restaurant - good to linger
We walk around the town a bit... but we are not city visitors. The castle itself seems to be a good hotel. The church within the walls is not accessible, but the mosque is.
Book p. 481


We walk around the town a bit... but we are not city visitors. The castle itself seems to be a good hotel. The church within the walls is not accessible, but the mosque is.
Book p. 481
We visit the Naziresha Mosque, which we imagined to be completely different from the descriptions
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naziresha-Moschee

We visit the Naziresha Mosque, which we imagined to be completely different from the descriptions
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naziresha-Moschee
P4N
Despite good descriptions on P4N, we were not at all happy with the location and drove on


P4N
Despite good descriptions on P4N, we were not at all happy with the location and drove on
Good parking space on the 'orthodox side' right next to the pedestrian bridge. Very helpful operators.
We stay here for 2 nights and rent a small car to
Lively city with various restaurants

Good parking space on the 'orthodox side' right next to the pedestrian bridge. Very helpful operators.
We stay here for 2 nights and rent a small car to
Lively city with various restaurants
Visit to a pilgrimage site high on the mountain (Albanians make the pilgrimage by car).
In August it must be teeming with people up there... now it was quiet.
On the way up: huge quarries



Visit to a pilgrimage site high on the mountain (Albanians make the pilgrimage by car).
In August it must be teeming with people up there... now it was quiet.
On the way up: huge quarries
On rather small roads we reach Bogove (lunch stop) with our rental car

On rather small roads we reach Bogove (lunch stop) with our rental car
On the way to the end of the valley (for normal cars) there are great views into the gorge
... and everything back again - a rather long trip



On the way to the end of the valley (for normal cars) there are great views into the gorge
... and everything back again - a rather long trip
On the way to Byllis we come across oil fields with small drilling rigs (it also smells a bit of oil)
After visiting the ruins we eat in the archaeological park
S231
https://apolloniaarchaeologicalpark.al/en/byllis-history/





On the way to Byllis we come across oil fields with small drilling rigs (it also smells a bit of oil)
After visiting the ruins we eat in the archaeological park
S231
https://apolloniaarchaeologicalpark.al/en/byllis-history/
A bit confusing to get there... but OK.
https://apolloniaarchaeologicalpark.al/en/home/
Book p.222





A bit confusing to get there... but OK.
https://apolloniaarchaeologicalpark.al/en/home/
Book p.222
Albanica Winery surrounded by vineyards with a fantastic view. Nice and good restaurant with small shop where you can buy wine and olive oil from their own production and enjoy homemade organic food. Very nice owner speaks perfect English. From the village of Kolonjë Ardenice drive up the hill to the monastery church until you see the signs to Albanica Winery and from there follow the gravel road.




Albanica Winery surrounded by vineyards with a fantastic view. Nice and good restaurant with small shop where you can buy wine and olive oil from their own production and enjoy homemade organic food. Very nice owner speaks perfect English. From the village of Kolonjë Ardenice drive up the hill to the monastery church until you see the signs to Albanica Winery and from there follow the gravel road.
We drove past Durres: a horrible city from the motorway! Maybe it's nicer in the centre - we don't know.
Since the weather is getting worse and we definitely want to experience the Koman ferry (not in the rain) ... we drive quickly north.
Durrës is a port city on the Adriatic Sea in western Albania, west of the capital Tirana. One of the city's landmarks is the huge Roman amphitheater. Nearby is a 9th-century church with mosaic-decorated walls. The Archaeological Museum displays finds from the Greek, Hellenic and Roman eras. Durrës' wide beach has shallow water and is not far from King Zogu's former 20th-century summer villa.
The amphitheater, which was discovered by chance during construction work in 1966, is worth seeing.



We drove past Durres: a horrible city from the motorway! Maybe it's nicer in the centre - we don't know.
Since the weather is getting worse and we definitely want to experience the Koman ferry (not in the rain) ... we drive quickly north.
Durrës is a port city on the Adriatic Sea in western Albania, west of the capital Tirana. One of the city's landmarks is the huge Roman amphitheater. Nearby is a 9th-century church with mosaic-decorated walls. The Archaeological Museum displays finds from the Greek, Hellenic and Roman eras. Durrës' wide beach has shallow water and is not far from King Zogu's former 20th-century summer villa.
The amphitheater, which was discovered by chance during construction work in 1966, is worth seeing.
Lunch stop at the Patokut lagoon: very beautiful and touristy!

Lunch stop at the Patokut lagoon: very beautiful and touristy!
Camping Komani is located at the entrance to Komani, where you will find peace and quiet, a great view and clean air.
very friendly hosts.



Camping Komani is located at the entrance to Komani, where you will find peace and quiet, a great view and clean air.
very friendly hosts.
absolutely sensational
https://komanilakeferry.com/




absolutely sensational
https://komanilakeferry.com/
Ferry arrival ... A great and atmospheric ferry ride. The weather held up - it was dry ... the sun shone at times, but a great experience: From boarding to the journey to the destination
PS: If you are hesitant about the chaos at the departure: The motorhome (not only ours) was safely secured by a local employee with the help of what felt like 10 helpers
reversed onto the ferry... around corners - through gaps - over ledges.
https://youtu.be/L76XwnxEToc








Ferry arrival ... A great and atmospheric ferry ride. The weather held up - it was dry ... the sun shone at times, but a great experience: From boarding to the journey to the destination
PS: If you are hesitant about the chaos at the departure: The motorhome (not only ours) was safely secured by a local employee with the help of what felt like 10 helpers
reversed onto the ferry... around corners - through gaps - over ledges.
https://youtu.be/L76XwnxEToc
uphill... downhill... As expected, the weather gets worse... but the scenery is simply amazing!



uphill... downhill... As expected, the weather gets worse... but the scenery is simply amazing!
Meanwhile, there is a newer bridge, which is still under construction.
We leave the town itself to the left, or rather we drive straight through Kukës... to the recommended parking spot in P4N with a great view, however, we only find large-scale driving bans.
We drive past the airfield further south (exciting history of the airport ... https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flughafen_Kuk%C3%ABs


Meanwhile, there is a newer bridge, which is still under construction.
We leave the town itself to the left, or rather we drive straight through Kukës... to the recommended parking spot in P4N with a great view, however, we only find large-scale driving bans.
We drive past the airfield further south (exciting history of the airport ... https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flughafen_Kuk%C3%ABs
We spend the night in the parking lot of a BILLA bar/restaurant: nice owners, but a lot of smoke (nicotine) in the restaurant, which we are no longer used to.
... there would still be a Mercedes for hobbyists


We spend the night in the parking lot of a BILLA bar/restaurant: nice owners, but a lot of smoke (nicotine) in the restaurant, which we are no longer used to.
... there would still be a Mercedes for hobbyists
War memorial

stress-free border crossing: ID, vehicle registration, green insurance card

stress-free border crossing: ID, vehicle registration, green insurance card
It is raining and rather cold. In Struga we go to the nearest pizzeria


It is raining and rather cold. In Struga we go to the nearest pizzeria
It is raining and so we drive through Ohrid and along the whole of Lake Ohrid until we are just behind the border in Albania: cozy - very clean campsite





It is raining and so we drive through Ohrid and along the whole of Lake Ohrid until we are just behind the border in Albania: cozy - very clean campsite
We visit one of the highlights of North Macedonia: the monastery of St. Naum: very impressive
In summer, however, it might be rather uncomfortable here!
Now cold and snow up to about 1'100 - 1'200 m above sea level






We visit one of the highlights of North Macedonia: the monastery of St. Naum: very impressive
In summer, however, it might be rather uncomfortable here!
Now cold and snow up to about 1'100 - 1'200 m above sea level
Before that, we have our Hymer washed at a classic LAVAZH and invest the last of our Lekki in diesel...



Before that, we have our Hymer washed at a classic LAVAZH and invest the last of our Lekki in diesel...

In Edessa we find a place to sleep right next to the ruins of ancient Edessa
Continue on to Greece... see there!

In Edessa we find a place to sleep right next to the ruins of ancient Edessa
Continue on to Greece... see there!
Route
Show newest first- 39.5045 20.2651
- 39° 30' 16.3" N 20° 15' 54.3" E
- 39.6367 20.1663
- 39° 38' 12.3" N 20° 9' 58.7" E
- 39.6519 20.1584
- 39° 39' 7" N 20° 9' 30.2" E
- 39.7454 20.018
- 39° 44' 43.3" N 20° 1' 4.7" E
- 39.7781 20.0059
- 39° 46' 41.1" N 20° 0' 21.3" E
- 39.873 20.0138
- 39° 52' 22.7" N 20° 0' 49.6" E
- 39.917 20.1857
- 39° 55' 1" N 20° 11' 8.4" E
- 39.923 20.1954
- 39° 55' 22.9" N 20° 11' 43.6" E
- 39.9377 20.2675
- 39° 56' 15.8" N 20° 16' 2.9" E
- 40.0776 20.151
- 40° 4' 39.5" N 20° 9' 3.5" E
- 40.0755 20.141
- 40° 4' 31.7" N 20° 8' 27.5" E
- 40.1833 20.185
- 40° 10' 59.9" N 20° 11' 6" E
- 40.0739 20.2908
- 40° 4' 26" N 20° 17' 26.8" E
- 40.0334 20.2576
- 40° 2' 0.2" N 20° 15' 27.5" E
- 40.032 20.2627
- 40° 1' 55.1" N 20° 15' 45.6" E
- 40.3185 19.8948
- 40° 19' 6.5" N 19° 53' 41.4" E
- 40.3533 19.9825
- 40° 21' 11.9" N 19° 58' 56.9" E
- 40.3482 19.9864
- 40° 20' 53.5" N 19° 59' 11" E
- 40.352 19.9828
- 40° 21' 7.3" N 19° 58' 58.1" E
- 40.3133 20.192
- 40° 18' 47.9" N 20° 11' 31.3" E
- 40.2903 20.239
- 40° 17' 25.1" N 20° 14' 20.5" E
- 40.2404 20.4292
- 40° 14' 25.5" N 20° 25' 45.1" E
- 40.2456 20.4384
- 40° 14' 44.2" N 20° 26' 18.1" E
- 40.1529 20.5997
- 40° 9' 10.5" N 20° 35' 58.8" E
- 40.3101 20.6521
- 40° 18' 36.2" N 20° 39' 7.5" E
- 40.544 20.7254
- 40° 32' 38.3" N 20° 43' 31.3" E
- 40.5908 20.7729
- 40° 35' 26.9" N 20° 46' 22.4" E
- 40.6087 20.7759
- 40° 36' 31.4" N 20° 46' 33.4" E
- 40.6332 20.5904
- 40° 37' 59.6" N 20° 35' 25.6" E
- 40.6456 20.6028
- 40° 38' 44.3" N 20° 36' 10" E
- 40.6256 20.7717
- 40° 37' 32" N 20° 46' 18" E
- 40.6465 20.7276
- 40° 38' 47.3" N 20° 43' 39.4" E
- 40.7101 20.6971
- 40° 42' 36.2" N 20° 41' 49.7" E
- 40.706 20.3944
- 40° 42' 21.6" N 20° 23' 39.7" E
- 40.8645 20.1858
- 40° 51' 52.1" N 20° 11' 8.8" E
- 40.9281 20.2091
- 40° 55' 41" N 20° 12' 32.7" E
- 41.024 19.9898
- 41° 1' 26.5" N 19° 59' 23.4" E
- 41.1009 20.1245
- 41° 6' 3.1" N 20° 7' 28.3" E
- 41.1131 20.082
- 41° 6' 47" N 20° 4' 55.1" E
- 41.1051 20.0865
- 41° 6' 18.3" N 20° 5' 11.6" E
- 41.1006 20.0284
- 41° 6' 2.2" N 20° 1' 42.1" E
- 40.8881 19.9774
- 40° 53' 17.2" N 19° 58' 38.5" E
- 40.7023 19.9438
- 40° 42' 8.4" N 19° 56' 37.6" E
- 40.6232 20.1937
- 40° 37' 23.4" N 20° 11' 37.4" E
- 40.5713 20.1467
- 40° 34' 16.6" N 20° 8' 48.1" E
- 40.4393 20.2805
- 40° 26' 21.5" N 20° 16' 49.9" E
- 40.5432 19.7384
- 40° 32' 35.5" N 19° 44' 18.3" E
- 40.7234 19.4718
- 40° 43' 24.1" N 19° 28' 18.6" E
- 40.8405 19.5979
- 40° 50' 25.9" N 19° 35' 52.5" E
- 41.315 19.4518
- 41° 18' 54" N 19° 27' 6.4" E
- 41.6366 19.5899
- 41° 38' 11.6" N 19° 35' 23.6" E
- 42.093 19.8153
- 42° 5' 34.7" N 19° 48' 55.1" E
- 42.1086 19.8263
- 42° 6' 30.8" N 19° 49' 34.7" E
- 42.1086 19.8262
- 42° 6' 31.1" N 19° 49' 34.1" E
- 42.2661 20.0156
- 42° 15' 58.1" N 20° 0' 56" E
- 42.1003 20.1137
- 42° 6' 1.2" N 20° 6' 49.3" E
- 42.0755 20.4067
- 42° 4' 31.9" N 20° 24' 24.2" E
- 41.8937 20.4154
- 41° 53' 37.4" N 20° 24' 55.5" E
- 41.7997 20.3935
- 41° 47' 58.8" N 20° 23' 36.5" E
- 41.561 20.4937
- 41° 33' 39.5" N 20° 29' 37.4" E
- 41.1745 20.6785
- 41° 10' 28.3" N 20° 40' 42.6" E
- 40.9137 20.7405
- 40° 54' 49.5" N 20° 44' 25.8" E
- 40.6234 21.056
- 40° 37' 24.1" N 21° 3' 21.6" E
- 40.7974 21.4428
- 40° 47' 50.7" N 21° 26' 34" E
- 40.7994 21.7738
- 40° 47' 58" N 21° 46' 25.9" E
- 40.7967 22.0582
- 40° 47' 48" N 22° 3' 29.4" E
Travelogue
Arrival 6 hours late at 13:30.
We drive towards Albania and have already registered in Kasami. Then we get a big surprise at customs: it's closed due to a strike. We drive back to a nearby beach to wait for the next day.
Arrival 6 hours late at 13:30.
We drive towards Albania and have already registered in Kasami. Then we get a big surprise at customs: it's closed due to a strike. We drive back to a nearby beach to wait for the next day.
There is a strike at the border. We can't cross the border until the next day. So we go back a bit and camp on the beach at Sagiada.
We only notice that the sign actually still says NO when we leave...



There is a strike at the border. We can't cross the border until the next day. So we go back a bit and camp on the beach at Sagiada.
We only notice that the sign actually still says NO when we leave...
Border crossing Greece - Albania.
Stress-free and without problems: ID, vehicle registration and green insurance card are completely sufficient.
Border crossing Greece - Albania.
Stress-free and without problems: ID, vehicle registration and green insurance card are completely sufficient.
After the small ferry we visit Butrint: very impressive and absolutely recommended - good descriptions of the ancient monuments. We also recommend the nearby restaurant Hotel Livia, where we have a wonderful meal on the terrace.



After the small ferry we visit Butrint: very impressive and absolutely recommended - good descriptions of the ancient monuments. We also recommend the nearby restaurant Hotel Livia, where we have a wonderful meal on the terrace.
Camping Ksamil:
Cozy campsite with very friendly owners. Several pitches with shade. We are greeted with a coffee and a lot of friendliness! Very clean sanitary facilities. Everything is very clean and furnished with love.
The location of the campsite is a bit unusual: somewhere in a residential area with construction going on all around - but we didn't hear anything: quiet and relaxing.



Camping Ksamil:
Cozy campsite with very friendly owners. Several pitches with shade. We are greeted with a coffee and a lot of friendliness! Very clean sanitary facilities. Everything is very clean and furnished with love.
The location of the campsite is a bit unusual: somewhere in a residential area with construction going on all around - but we didn't hear anything: quiet and relaxing.
We drive into Sarrande because we still need an Albanian SIM card. At first we can't find one in the center... there is also a huge traffic chaos because an old house is burning in the middle of the city (it was probably burned down to make room for something new).
On the main road we find a kiosk where we get a SIM card: This in the iPhone and from now on I have an Albanian phone number, as well as 40GB data volume ... for just under 30€


We drive into Sarrande because we still need an Albanian SIM card. At first we can't find one in the center... there is also a huge traffic chaos because an old house is burning in the middle of the city (it was probably burned down to make room for something new).
On the main road we find a kiosk where we get a SIM card: This in the iPhone and from now on I have an Albanian phone number, as well as 40GB data volume ... for just under 30€
You stop at a large parking lot in front of the reservoir, then pay a fee of 1€ and we walk to Blue Eye (you could also rent an electric scooter, but that seems a bit excessive to us).
You stop at a large parking lot in front of the reservoir, then pay a fee of 1€ and we walk to Blue Eye (you could also rent an electric scooter, but that seems a bit excessive to us).
very nice - relatively touristy, but in early April it is still quiet




very nice - relatively touristy, but in early April it is still quiet
Small campsite near a restaurant. Pitches with shade. Showers and toilets are clean. Chemical toilets and grey water cannot be emptied. The operators were friendly and helpful.


Small campsite near a restaurant. Pitches with shade. Showers and toilets are clean. Chemical toilets and grey water cannot be emptied. The operators were friendly and helpful.
We can park below the castle and explore the city. Ideal place in front of the newly built underground car park.
On foot we explore Gjirokaster Castle and the Skenduli House



We can park below the castle and explore the city. Ideal place in front of the newly built underground car park.
On foot we explore Gjirokaster Castle and the Skenduli House
On a plateau - totally quiet and lonely. The 'groundskeeper' hardly speaks any English but is a warm and friendly guy who is willing to read your every wish from your lips.
It 'even' has a toilet and shower ...


On a plateau - totally quiet and lonely. The 'groundskeeper' hardly speaks any English but is a warm and friendly guy who is willing to read your every wish from your lips.
It 'even' has a toilet and shower ...
beautiful church - somewhat (very) narrow access ... but it's possible!



beautiful church - somewhat (very) narrow access ... but it's possible!
Mountain village with restaurant under a huge plane tree, as well as a castle complex a little above with a beautiful view




Mountain village with restaurant under a huge plane tree, as well as a castle complex a little above with a beautiful view
'Circular route from Tepelene: adventurous and scenically magnificent. Good road, although sometimes rather narrow



'Circular route from Tepelene: adventurous and scenically magnificent. Good road, although sometimes rather narrow
Camping right on the road doesn't appeal to us and we drive back to the main valley

Camping right on the road doesn't appeal to us and we drive back to the main valley
Pitch right on the river bank: brilliant location. Shower and toilet in the restaurant next door

Pitch right on the river bank: brilliant location. Shower and toilet in the restaurant next door

Cheese factory in the bunker
good cheese shop (or shop with good cheese!) with friendly owners.

Cheese factory in the bunker
good cheese shop (or shop with good cheese!) with friendly owners.
The place is located 300 meters from the thermal spring of Benja, the Ottoman bridge of Katiu and the gorge of the river Lengarica.
Only 5 minutes to the springs. Nice young operators who still have a lot planned. Beautiful starry sky!

The place is located 300 meters from the thermal spring of Benja, the Ottoman bridge of Katiu and the gorge of the river Lengarica.
Only 5 minutes to the springs. Nice young operators who still have a lot planned. Beautiful starry sky!



We reach Leskovik on a generally bad road (SS75 on the section: Carcovë - Leskovik)
The scenery is magnificent



We reach Leskovik on a generally bad road (SS75 on the section: Carcovë - Leskovik)
The scenery is magnificent
A very good campsite, or stop-off point, fresh trout ponds on site. Small shower, toilet. There is also a restaurant on site.
P4N: 7402
freshly caught trout ... mmmh


A very good campsite, or stop-off point, fresh trout ponds on site. Small shower, toilet. There is also a restaurant on site.
P4N: 7402
freshly caught trout ... mmmh
impressive memorial to a massacre from the Second World War, where the population of an entire village was wiped out 'in retaliation'!
Book p. 431


impressive memorial to a massacre from the Second World War, where the population of an entire village was wiped out 'in retaliation'!
Book p. 431
ca 8km before Korca burial mound (p.457)
One of the largest excavation sites, but still quite manageable. Exhibition beautifully arranged,We were looked after and given gifts by a very nice lady.


ca 8km before Korca burial mound (p.457)
One of the largest excavation sites, but still quite manageable. Exhibition beautifully arranged,We were looked after and given gifts by a very nice lady.
Good, lovingly prepared campsite with hospitable operators.
On the homepage it sounds like this:
... Welcome to Camping Korca, your premier destination for an unforgettable camping experience in the heart of Korce town. Nestled in the stunning scenery of the Korce region, our campsite offers the perfect blend of natural beauty, comfort and relaxation .


Good, lovingly prepared campsite with hospitable operators.
On the homepage it sounds like this:
... Welcome to Camping Korca, your premier destination for an unforgettable camping experience in the heart of Korce town. Nestled in the stunning scenery of the Korce region, our campsite offers the perfect blend of natural beauty, comfort and relaxation .
We ride our bikes to Korce and explore the city on foot...
We skip the famous brewery because we prefer wine anyway.




We ride our bikes to Korce and explore the city on foot...
We skip the famous brewery because we prefer wine anyway.
Unfortunately, all churches are closed (except for one). We drive up to the monastery Monastiri Shen Prodhromit, which works out without any problems despite the description saying otherwise.
Lunch in the village
Book S 453 - there must be very interesting churches there, among other things
(Info in the Tourist Center in Korce, which was still closed)




Unfortunately, all churches are closed (except for one). We drive up to the monastery Monastiri Shen Prodhromit, which works out without any problems despite the description saying otherwise.
Lunch in the village
Book S 453 - there must be very interesting churches there, among other things
(Info in the Tourist Center in Korce, which was still closed)
Shen Prodhomit Monastery (p.455)
We drive up to the monastery, which works without any problems despite the description saying otherwise. However, the monastery is currently (April 2024) under construction.
This is called “Manastiri i Shën Prodhromit” by the locals and is located in the middle of the trees. With stunning views of Voskopoja and a fountain that the locals believe to be “holy water” that some of them bottle and even take back to the US or Canada. It is a place to go



Shen Prodhomit Monastery (p.455)
We drive up to the monastery, which works without any problems despite the description saying otherwise. However, the monastery is currently (April 2024) under construction.
This is called “Manastiri i Shën Prodhromit” by the locals and is located in the middle of the trees. With stunning views of Voskopoja and a fountain that the locals believe to be “holy water” that some of them bottle and even take back to the US or Canada. It is a place to go
This memorial/tomb/'monastery' towers over the plain... we're going to visit it:
great view - but we didn't find out what it was for




This memorial/tomb/'monastery' towers over the plain... we're going to visit it:
great view - but we didn't find out what it was for
The SH 71: mostly well developed with some bumpy sections (construction work is underway).
The old road disappears into the reservoir... the new 'bypass' is a constant up and down, with great scenery and is easy to drive.






The SH 71: mostly well developed with some bumpy sections (construction work is underway).
The old road disappears into the reservoir... the new 'bypass' is a constant up and down, with great scenery and is easy to drive.
p. 491
p. 491
A great place - also to stay overnight.
We didn't go into the canyon itself...but it's supposed to be very beautiful!


A great place - also to stay overnight.
We didn't go into the canyon itself...but it's supposed to be very beautiful!
nice place near springs.
Restaurant - good to linger


nice place near springs.
Restaurant - good to linger
We walk around the town a bit... but we are not city visitors. The castle itself seems to be a good hotel. The church within the walls is not accessible, but the mosque is.
Book p. 481


We walk around the town a bit... but we are not city visitors. The castle itself seems to be a good hotel. The church within the walls is not accessible, but the mosque is.
Book p. 481
We visit the Naziresha Mosque, which we imagined to be completely different from the descriptions
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naziresha-Moschee

We visit the Naziresha Mosque, which we imagined to be completely different from the descriptions
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naziresha-Moschee
P4N
Despite good descriptions on P4N, we were not at all happy with the location and drove on


P4N
Despite good descriptions on P4N, we were not at all happy with the location and drove on
Good parking space on the 'orthodox side' right next to the pedestrian bridge. Very helpful operators.
We stay here for 2 nights and rent a small car to
Lively city with various restaurants

Good parking space on the 'orthodox side' right next to the pedestrian bridge. Very helpful operators.
We stay here for 2 nights and rent a small car to
Lively city with various restaurants
Visit to a pilgrimage site high on the mountain (Albanians make the pilgrimage by car).
In August it must be teeming with people up there... now it was quiet.
On the way up: huge quarries



Visit to a pilgrimage site high on the mountain (Albanians make the pilgrimage by car).
In August it must be teeming with people up there... now it was quiet.
On the way up: huge quarries
On rather small roads we reach Bogove (lunch stop) with our rental car

On rather small roads we reach Bogove (lunch stop) with our rental car
On the way to the end of the valley (for normal cars) there are great views into the gorge
... and everything back again - a rather long trip



On the way to the end of the valley (for normal cars) there are great views into the gorge
... and everything back again - a rather long trip
On the way to Byllis we come across oil fields with small drilling rigs (it also smells a bit of oil)
After visiting the ruins we eat in the archaeological park
S231
https://apolloniaarchaeologicalpark.al/en/byllis-history/





On the way to Byllis we come across oil fields with small drilling rigs (it also smells a bit of oil)
After visiting the ruins we eat in the archaeological park
S231
https://apolloniaarchaeologicalpark.al/en/byllis-history/
A bit confusing to get there... but OK.
https://apolloniaarchaeologicalpark.al/en/home/
Book p.222





A bit confusing to get there... but OK.
https://apolloniaarchaeologicalpark.al/en/home/
Book p.222
Albanica Winery surrounded by vineyards with a fantastic view. Nice and good restaurant with small shop where you can buy wine and olive oil from their own production and enjoy homemade organic food. Very nice owner speaks perfect English. From the village of Kolonjë Ardenice drive up the hill to the monastery church until you see the signs to Albanica Winery and from there follow the gravel road.




Albanica Winery surrounded by vineyards with a fantastic view. Nice and good restaurant with small shop where you can buy wine and olive oil from their own production and enjoy homemade organic food. Very nice owner speaks perfect English. From the village of Kolonjë Ardenice drive up the hill to the monastery church until you see the signs to Albanica Winery and from there follow the gravel road.
We drove past Durres: a horrible city from the motorway! Maybe it's nicer in the centre - we don't know.
Since the weather is getting worse and we definitely want to experience the Koman ferry (not in the rain) ... we drive quickly north.
Durrës is a port city on the Adriatic Sea in western Albania, west of the capital Tirana. One of the city's landmarks is the huge Roman amphitheater. Nearby is a 9th-century church with mosaic-decorated walls. The Archaeological Museum displays finds from the Greek, Hellenic and Roman eras. Durrës' wide beach has shallow water and is not far from King Zogu's former 20th-century summer villa.
The amphitheater, which was discovered by chance during construction work in 1966, is worth seeing.



We drove past Durres: a horrible city from the motorway! Maybe it's nicer in the centre - we don't know.
Since the weather is getting worse and we definitely want to experience the Koman ferry (not in the rain) ... we drive quickly north.
Durrës is a port city on the Adriatic Sea in western Albania, west of the capital Tirana. One of the city's landmarks is the huge Roman amphitheater. Nearby is a 9th-century church with mosaic-decorated walls. The Archaeological Museum displays finds from the Greek, Hellenic and Roman eras. Durrës' wide beach has shallow water and is not far from King Zogu's former 20th-century summer villa.
The amphitheater, which was discovered by chance during construction work in 1966, is worth seeing.
Lunch stop at the Patokut lagoon: very beautiful and touristy!

Lunch stop at the Patokut lagoon: very beautiful and touristy!
Camping Komani is located at the entrance to Komani, where you will find peace and quiet, a great view and clean air.
very friendly hosts.



Camping Komani is located at the entrance to Komani, where you will find peace and quiet, a great view and clean air.
very friendly hosts.
absolutely sensational
https://komanilakeferry.com/




absolutely sensational
https://komanilakeferry.com/
Ferry arrival ... A great and atmospheric ferry ride. The weather held up - it was dry ... the sun shone at times, but a great experience: From boarding to the journey to the destination
PS: If you are hesitant about the chaos at the departure: The motorhome (not only ours) was safely secured by a local employee with the help of what felt like 10 helpers
reversed onto the ferry... around corners - through gaps - over ledges.
https://youtu.be/L76XwnxEToc








Ferry arrival ... A great and atmospheric ferry ride. The weather held up - it was dry ... the sun shone at times, but a great experience: From boarding to the journey to the destination
PS: If you are hesitant about the chaos at the departure: The motorhome (not only ours) was safely secured by a local employee with the help of what felt like 10 helpers
reversed onto the ferry... around corners - through gaps - over ledges.
https://youtu.be/L76XwnxEToc
uphill... downhill... As expected, the weather gets worse... but the scenery is simply amazing!



uphill... downhill... As expected, the weather gets worse... but the scenery is simply amazing!
Meanwhile, there is a newer bridge, which is still under construction.
We leave the town itself to the left, or rather we drive straight through Kukës... to the recommended parking spot in P4N with a great view, however, we only find large-scale driving bans.
We drive past the airfield further south (exciting history of the airport ... https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flughafen_Kuk%C3%ABs


Meanwhile, there is a newer bridge, which is still under construction.
We leave the town itself to the left, or rather we drive straight through Kukës... to the recommended parking spot in P4N with a great view, however, we only find large-scale driving bans.
We drive past the airfield further south (exciting history of the airport ... https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flughafen_Kuk%C3%ABs
We spend the night in the parking lot of a BILLA bar/restaurant: nice owners, but a lot of smoke (nicotine) in the restaurant, which we are no longer used to.
... there would still be a Mercedes for hobbyists


We spend the night in the parking lot of a BILLA bar/restaurant: nice owners, but a lot of smoke (nicotine) in the restaurant, which we are no longer used to.
... there would still be a Mercedes for hobbyists
War memorial

stress-free border crossing: ID, vehicle registration, green insurance card

stress-free border crossing: ID, vehicle registration, green insurance card
It is raining and rather cold. In Struga we go to the nearest pizzeria


It is raining and rather cold. In Struga we go to the nearest pizzeria
It is raining and so we drive through Ohrid and along the whole of Lake Ohrid until we are just behind the border in Albania: cozy - very clean campsite





It is raining and so we drive through Ohrid and along the whole of Lake Ohrid until we are just behind the border in Albania: cozy - very clean campsite
We visit one of the highlights of North Macedonia: the monastery of St. Naum: very impressive
In summer, however, it might be rather uncomfortable here!
Now cold and snow up to about 1'100 - 1'200 m above sea level






We visit one of the highlights of North Macedonia: the monastery of St. Naum: very impressive
In summer, however, it might be rather uncomfortable here!
Now cold and snow up to about 1'100 - 1'200 m above sea level
Before that, we have our Hymer washed at a classic LAVAZH and invest the last of our Lekki in diesel...



Before that, we have our Hymer washed at a classic LAVAZH and invest the last of our Lekki in diesel...

In Edessa we find a place to sleep right next to the ruins of ancient Edessa
Continue on to Greece... see there!

In Edessa we find a place to sleep right next to the ruins of ancient Edessa
Continue on to Greece... see there!
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