Holland or Netherlands? Discovery tour along the Maas to the old Hanseatic cities

For this vacation we have decided to drive only small stages. There should be a maximum of 100 km of driving distance between the places. We have time and after all, Holland is not as big as COZY!

The first stop is reached after 98 km: Roermond, CP Resort Marina Olderhuuske. The campsite is just outside the city on a peninsula. We get a seat in the first row and stand in the sunshine with a view of the Maas.

The peninsula is an Eldorado for water sports fans. On the specially created Maasseen, everything for small and large water rats is offered, from the heaped sandy beach to water skiing.

The campsite (one of many) is on the tip of the island and is therefore surrounded by water. Very clean and tidy with great sanitary buildings, children's playground, snack bar, restaurant ...... The places are spacious, well paved and very even.

In the summer months there is a small ferry from the campsite over to Roermond, otherwise you can easily get into town by bike or on foot.

Roermond is a charming little town with a harbor, lots of restaurants and shops. Really worth a visit. The huge shopping experience can of course be found in the huge outlet center. (Dogs allowed)

The next stop is on the SP at the marina in Linden near Cuijk.

The SP is connected to the opposite CP. It is a large meadow along the harbor basin on which you can say "as you like" to the right and left. V / E and garbage cans are on the square.

Although the place is well filled, we are lucky again and get a place right on the water. Opposite us is the nice harbor restaurant with a terrace on the water!

We grab the bikes and do a little exploration trip to Cuijk. Nice place with everything your heart desires!

TIP: Eating kibbeling is a must in NL anyway, so we felt we have eaten kibbeling 1,000 times - but this one is an absolute dream! Freshly cut, breaded and fried in the small fish shop ..... and sooooo delicious breading :-) You have to try it!

Back on the SP, we walk with Henry (dog) along the harbor basin and romp on the sandy beach at the Maas basin. (free running is prohibited there during the day - swimming area)

It's so calm and relaxed here ..... good night!

The next day also greets us with sunshine. After breakfast we cycle to Cuijk and take the ferry to the other side to Plasmolen. There is also a nice SP right on the water at CP Eldorado.

Witteweg 18
6586 AE Plasmolen
+31 (0) 24 696 19 14

We drive via Doesburg (a little city stroll is worth it!) On to Deventer to the city camping.

The campsite is opposite the city on the IJssel. A large meadow area on the edge of the city park. You stand free and relaxed by the water or under one of the large trees (no division), water, electricity, etc. everything is there. The sanitary facilities were closed due to Corona - so I can't say.

Water dogs and children have fun in the shallow water with large pebbles and many sandbanks. The ferry dock is at the entrance to the campsite. Ferryman bring us over = 1 €

Deventer is considered the oldest city in the NL. You heard from her as early as 806 ;-) Historically yes - but definitely not old-fashioned!

Modern artisans, cafes and international restaurants have moved into the bumpy streets and small merchants' houses. Modern life pulsates around the historic Lebuiniskerk.

Unfortunately, the sky darkens in the evening and evil, dark clouds do not give a good indication. We sped to the ferry and just before the first downpour reached the camper!

The rain pounds on the roof of the motorhome and the wind rocks us back and forth, so we spend a cozy evening inside.

You became a motorhome driver because you want to be flexible ?!

In the evening, as always, we checked the mobile network for the ultimate mobile home and ... there it was: a Frankia! Like ours, only newer and inside more modern and chic! Um ... It is for sale in Syke near Leer, our German final destination on the Holland route. It would be about 220 km! We are flexible. Then we stop at the end of our intended tour and drive the rest of the Holland route back home. So, from the end to the beginning, so to speak.

Torsten calls the provider and he raves about his caravan. He was a professional yacht builder and made everything technically perfect and optically at its best!

Freshly supplied and disposed of, we move our Fränkia on the shortest route to Syke. When looking at the sale object, outside and inside, we unfortunately did not take any pictures of our facial expressions :-( .... In any case, we did not need 10 minutes to say goodbye to the owners and the camper "never to see you again"!

So, what do we do now? We want to experience another highlight on this day! It was found quickly:

SP Jümme ferry in Wiltshausen at the inn - Amdorferstr. 101, 26789 Leer

You can spend the night free of charge in the car park of the inn with a large outdoor restaurant. But now it was the first Corona and the second day of rest in the inn. The nice operator greets us and offers us to stand on the approach to the ferry with direct water and a view of the ferry. How lucky we are! When the weather is nice, we stand alone next to the bus shelter at the historic Pünte as a monument on the water! The small pedestrian ferry is moored on the other side of the water (empty) and we watch her swing on the water! Very romantic.

Unfortunately, unfortunately the inn is closed! Our mouths water when we read the menu. In addition to schnitzel, there is a lot of fish. Roasted eel, captain's pan, plaice .... hmm - what a shame :-( Then we just have to cook ourselves. After dinner we go for a nice walk with Henry along the dike and have a sundowner at this nice spot.

The next morning we leave our idyllic place. We want to continue our planned Holland Tour - only now from the end to the beginning.

But first let's take a look at Leer. In the middle of the city there is a parking lot where camper vans can and are allowed to stand (we are short 8.20 m long). The weather is not that great though. It's raining, it's cold and windy. This is how Leer looks a little bleak and empty. A short stroll is enough to give us an overview. Conclusion: very nice, we would like to come back when the weather is better and we do a "Germany-North" tour. Now off to NL :-)

On the way to our next planned stop, however, we still stop in Winschoten. There is an SP at the marina:

Marina, Hellingbaan 4 - 9672 Winschoten

The CP is really in the middle of a huge park on the edge of the city. Relaxed standing under huge trees, on a small stream, on a meadow or "semi" attached ..... without division with lots of space! We really like it here.

From the campsite you can walk through the park to Groningen's market square in less than 10 minutes. In the park itself you can go for a walk with your dog, there is even a dog playground - great :-)

It is barely 10 minutes by bike through the park to the city center.

We are really lucky: even though it is early afternoon, there is still a weekly market on the market square. So quickly park the bicycles and look at the greengrocers, fish stalls, fishmongers, cheese stands and vending trucks with fragrant oliebollen. Ok, you can't walk past such an oliebollen stand, especially if you haven't eaten since breakfast. WE can't walk past such a fish cart without stocking up on delicious fish for the evening - the grill is calling!

Groningen is a lively, diverse student city. Modern meets historical monuments, nice little individual shops next to well-known fashion houses, great international restaurants and cafes.

In short, you should plan 2-3 days for Groningen - it's worth it!

As much as we liked the CP and Groningen - there is still a lot to see and we continue after 2 days.

Comfortable overland like to Lauwersoog. You can park and spend the night at the port. V / E is available, electricity and sanitary facilities are not available.

A dam separates the sea from the Lauwersmeer to prevent flooding. Lauwerskoog was only created after the dike was dyed in 1969, so nothing historical awaits us here, but a unique, extensive sand and lake landscape. It is a great bird sanctuary and today wild orchids and Konik horses graze on the former seabed.

The weather is right, we take a long walk on the dam and enjoy the peaceful natural spectacle. When we are back at the port, we notice that we have an appetite again (must be the good sea air). A large harbor restaurant and a fish hall with restaurant give us an idea that there is fresh fish, kibbeling and fried fish here! Just like that! In the fish hall on the ground floor, the freshly arrived fish is scaled, cut and sold. A part moves to the upper floor and is prepared there.

We opt for a portion of fried mussels and fried fish. What portions! Several people will be full and extremely tasty!

The wind whistles in the harbor basin and we decide to go a little further.

The N 361 leads us via Paesens, Wierum and Holwerd. The ferry to Ameland departs from Holwerd. The motorhome can be parked at the Holwerd Ameland Car Park for little money (€ 6). Use of the shuttle bus is included in the price.

Now it is already afternoon, the wind is fresh and we are drawn a little further inland to Dokkum.

In front of us is the bridge over the canal from the Lauwersmeer into the city. We have to turn into a small residential area and immediately left again, between a rather narrow entrance made of high hedges. Ok as always if something seems "strange" or too tight, I park the camper and Sylke goes to see. She comes back with a bright smile and gives me to understand that I have to go through this "eye of the needle" and that I will pass "

So through the narrow hedge to a "backyard" and left again! There! A beautiful place right on the water opposite the lighthouse and the city! Great

The city gained notoriety when the missionary Boniface was murdered there in 754. For the Catholics, Dokkum is a place of pilgrimage. But it is really a very charming town. From the SP you walk quickly over the bridge and you are right in the middle of it. Historic buildings line up, small cafes and lots of restaurants. It's cold but the blue sky and the sun encourage us to have ice cream from our own production and milk production. Hmm delicious. We stroll through the alleys past the small shops / shops and expect a knight to come around the corner on horseback at any moment :-) Orientation is easy for us, the mill on the small island in the canal can almost always be seen and across the street is the SP.

So we walk towards the canal and pass the tiny Frisian houses. All brightly painted and lovingly decorated. Really, really lovely. Over a small bridge we get back to the other side and let our Henry "off the leash". There are some dog owners out and about and Henry is having fun.

You cannot leave Dokkum without having had a cup of Dokkumer koffie. A good cup of coffee is accompanied by a shot of Beerenburg (herbal brandy) and topped with a cherry on top! Beerenburg is said to be the most famous and popular drink of the Frisians and originally comes from Dokkum.

Somebody told us: "... and then you have to go to Lemmer ..."

Since it is on our route and also has an SP at the marina, we will do it. Even the first impression makes us skeptical. We drive to the marina and stand on the empty SP. A concrete parking area without any charm. We kindly ask the harbor master whether we can only park here to see the city and then decide whether we should stay. NO! He explains to us quite unfriendly (although the whole large square is empty) that we now have to pay the € 19 parking fee whether we stay or not. We are a bit puzzled by the sound and decide to leave this unfriendly place quickly.

A few meters further towards the city center there is a huge parking lot with a machine. We buy a ticket for 2 hours and first go to the opposite beach. Lemmer is located directly on the IJsselmeer and is probably a very popular seaside resort. This is what the beach looks like. Children's playground with a fence around it, separate areas for swimmers and non-swimmers, dogs are only allowed in a small area ... Signs regulate the beach fun!

Then let's take a look at the fishing village! Yes, two short streets with nice buildings but a lot more bars. Pub to pub: Irish pup, Scottish, Spanish bodega ....... Musikantenstadel, brewery .... oh dear, it looks like a Ballermann! We can guess what's going on here in summer! It is not our taste and we move on to Giethoorn.

The place, a former farm is located a few meters outside of Giethoorn on the canal. We are greeted warmly by the bearded owner as we drive in. With him is the farm dog, an older, very relaxed dog lady.

We are allowed to choose a place and choose the "Heckenplatz" in the corner. Henry can hardly wait to come out of the camper to pay his respects to the lady-in-waiting :-) A quick sniff is enough to establish a certain sympathy for each other and so the two of them move across the yard and the parking space together. OK, let's get rid of our dog first! but, we are quite sure: he'll be back! (was also like that)

We feel at home straight away. The sanitary facilities are in a former shed, not luxurious but available. A notice board announces that you can also order something to eat. Small typical Dutch dishes: Frikandeln with fries etc. The garden terrace is open in summer and when it is not Corona. Now the pre-ordered food is delivered to the camper.

The Venice of the North! Great city marketing, I think, we're looking forward to "Venice".

We get the bikes ready and cycle from the square a bit along the canal to the next bridge in the village / center. There is a small, well-stocked supermarket and a landing stage for the "whisper boats" and the larger excursion boats. Due to the corona, the excursion boats are not allowed to operate. Whisper boats are small, low-noise motor boats with which you can chug through the canals. We'll stick to cycling though. But this is only possible in the narrow paths along the canals because there are hardly any tourists. In a "normal" summer, crowds of people have to push their way through the "streets". We enjoy it so empty and are just amazed! What an extremely extraordinary and charming place!

Almost car-free, idyllic and incredibly romantic - that's how you can describe the small village of Giethoorn. The canal meanders through the town for around eight kilometers, and more than 180 bridges connect the reed roof houses, some of which are hundreds of years old, with each other and with the canal. The small "land islands" are all very neat and landscaped, the houses are often decorated and / or decorated. Restaurants, cafes and ice cream parlors invite you to stop. Since these are waterways, you can moor your boat anywhere and take a break, eat an ice cream under the weeping willow or have a cocktail on one of the many romantic water terraces. Oh, it's beautiful here !! We can't get enough of the pretty houses and gardens ....

On the way back we buy some salad and meat to grill. The CP and the weather invite you to barbecue.

We are totally relaxed and somehow "happy" from the pitch, the place ...

The next morning we are drawn to the romantic canal and island world again. The Weerribben-Wieden National Park begins at the end of the canal. A swampy landscape that used to be a popular peat and reed mining area. Next to the park is the Museumboerderij 't Olde Maat Uus, a museum farm that tells the history of the region.

A delicious scent rises in our noses here! It smells like fish. We get a bag of kibbeling and prawns and eat them on a bench by the canal. It is fun to watch the families with the rental boats! Some "stumble" around on the water - bump into here and there and often manage to get out of the way of oncoming traffic in the last second!

We cycle around a bit, look at the other parking spaces, take a long walk with Henry through the fields .......

The next day, a Saturday, there is a market in Steenwijk, 20 km away. The weather is a bit overcast and windy. We consider taking the bus, but then decide to use the bikes so that we are flexible. The bike paths in Holland are a dream! Always separated from the car lane, you roll along very relaxed. A bit along the canal and then through a small residential area we arrive in Steenwijk. The market is quite small but very busy. The place ...... ugly. We don't feel like staying here any longer and cycle back to the parking space along the canal.

We spend a quiet afternoon, going for a walk, supplying and disposing of the camper because tomorrow it will continue.

The motorhome pitch belongs to the Roompot holiday resort "Marina Volendam". It is on the edge of the harbor basin, pretty much directly on the water. A large parking lot marked out by hedges. V / E and electricity available. 20.- € for 2 people.

We didn't like it. It looked a bit "useless" and neglected for € 20 you can find something nicer.

The SP in Edam is much more charming - but: no dogs allowed!

The sun is shining, Henry dreams of his vacation acquaintance, the farm dog and we roll to Enkhuizen. Enkhuizen is a lovely harbor town whose former wealth cannot be overlooked. Monuments in the classical style, Renaissance buildings line up between stately villas, small, colorful fishermen's houses, artisan yards, small shops and restaurants. A colorful mix of centuries. In the harbor, the sails clink on the masts of the many sailing boats next to beautifully decorated wooden boats, fishing boats and motor boats.

The Zuiderzeemuseum (Zuiderzee = southern lake) is the most famous museum in the city with the largest collection of wooden ships in Holland.

In the summer months and when no corona is affecting life, a historic small steam train travels the "historic triangle" Hoorn - Medemblik - Enkhuizen. A nice trip, also for children.

Enkhuizen and the surrounding area have a lot to offer and a stay of several days is worthwhile. However, our time is limited and after we have got a first impression we are sure that we will come here again for a longer stay.

Via Voldendam (we don't like the SP here) to Edam (dogs are not allowed on the SP), we surround Amsterdam and head for Camping Erkemeder Strand, which is hyped by dog owners.

In the forums and FB "dog groups" this place is touted as the "Holy Grail". We are very curious.

Even on the long and somewhat "lonely" journey to the campsite, it quickly becomes clear that you should have done some shopping beforehand and that a nice stroll through town will probably not work!

It is far away from any civilization in a wooded area. The next place would be Zeewolde (approx. 6 km). But good: the dogs should also have their vacation fun! So we check in. The "first row" is full - but behind it we are given a nice place with a view of the water! Reached place, water view? Um ..... yes in a water glass! OK don't be put off and explore the place. Dogs on a leash - no, that's clear! Except for ours, probably nobody is on a leash. On to the water and marvel at the great beach / dog beach. In the "first row" there are almost exclusively caravans with awnings and dog fences around them. We have to go this way to get to the dog beach. It's a bit like in an animal shelter: all the dogs stand yapping behind their fence and the people sit comfortably with a beer / coffee ... look up and then devote themselves to the card game or the cake - the dogs keep on yapping. But at the end of the path you can see our target: a beach with about 30 large, unleashed dogs that frolic with each other and on top of each other. The associated can openers stand together in groups and tend to care less about what their dogs are doing. Until a dog howls so loud in pain that you can't miss it. Probably not the first bite of the day. What fun - but not for our 5 kg dwarf!

We turn back, along the "dog fence mile" and want to take a walk on the green dike. We try to skip the hundreds of piles of manure or to walk around ...... no, that's not really fun either. Then we take a look at the on-site restaurant. Always follow the smell of french fries! Yes it's there and it's a takeaway.

This is not our place! It's good that we only booked one night!

The direction is given: to the west, roughly towards Aachen.

Our next stop is the SP at the Veerdam-Druten marina on the Waal. The place is next to the harbor on meadow / gravel / sand with a view of the Waal. You can also stand on asphalt in the small harbor basin. We park in the meadows / sand area. 5 steps from the camper you are already on the beach of the Waal. Directly from the square you go on one side along the Waal over meadows, trails or on the pedestrian / bike path through nature and on the other side you are in the village in a few steps.

The place isn't particularly charming, although there are a few fun bars and nice restaurants. There is also no lack of international snack cuisine. We treat ourselves to a Turkish specialty "to go" and sit in the sun. It's a shame - our tour is coming to an end and we still have so much to discover! But don't get moody, it's not over yet!

After refreshment, we walk through the village and take some necessary groceries with us in the large supermarket. With your stomach and backpack full you go back to the camper van.

Well, now Henry wants to take the Waalsandstrand under his paws. We have fun in the small bay and when the big ships come by the water sloshes onto the beach. Henry is thrilled.

The Meuse flows parallel to the Waal and the town of Appeltern (approx. 6 km) with the "Gardens of Appeltern" is well worth seeing! info@appeltern.nl

The entrance fee is 12.50 € / pp not exactly cheap - but it's worth it. Great park and garden with lots of garden inspiration = you should treat yourself to it. Dogs are allowed on a leash!

Water sports campsite Gravenhof is right on the Maas and right on site.

Actually more of a permanent campsite for water sports enthusiasts with direct access to the water. But, they also have tourist sites (you don't necessarily see that at first glance) :-)

We are there on weekdays and apart from us no one else and certainly no mobile home! So we ring the groundsman's doorbell and ask somewhat shyly whether we could possibly stand here ?! But sure is the answer. "I'll go with you and show you where you can stand". We walk across the square with the groundskeeper and gradually he thaws out and tells us something about the square and the people here. Many boat owners from NRW have their permanent camping here and on the weekends / holidays it is all very "familiar". There isn't much going on during the week (we'll see - it's fine with us). We quickly found a large meadow with a view of the Maas!

It's a bit strange being all alone on a CP, but it's our last day and evening and we want to have it cozy and romantic, maybe have another barbecue .....

We like it very much here! And Henry has the "great freedom"

The last day of our journey of discovery through NL :-(

On the way to Kessel there are some signs to the right and left of the path with information on SP or CP. We follow one or the other, but don't find anything really convincing. The last day, the last evening ... it should be something special! On the outskirts of Kessel we see the very often recommended parking space for Kessel. We drive to that too ... but, it's a "flat" place with a bit of green in nothing. No water view and a long way to the place. Sylke got an "insider tip". A water sports campsite in the former Gravenhofe estate in the village. Let's see. Great - here we stay! It's according to our taste!

From the campsite you are right on the water, on the Maasboulevard / Loswal or in town on the historic market square. Such a brilliant location is really rare. The place itself is not big, but nice. From the market square there are a few streets with old mansions or small, typically Dutch row houses. A well-attended ice cream parlor - the Clevers ice cream shop is a real institution in the Limburger Land! It also has a butcher, baker and corner shop. Some quaint and also high-priced restaurants ... for example the "Baron Frits" with a huge outdoor terrace on the Meuse. However, it is not a snack bar, as one might assume, it is an excellent hotel-restaurant in the former outbuilding of Castle De Keverberg. Here you can enjoy wonderful coffee and cake or a delicious cocktail in the afternoon. The sublime view over the Meuse and the Meuse valley is unique. But so is the food! From interesting burger variations with frits to delicious fish dishes and menus, everyone will find something for every occasion and budget. In the evening the hotel and the castle are beautifully lit, very romantic!

We stroll through the town and lick our ice cream, wonderful! At the ferry terminal, we turn onto the path along the Maas and arrive directly at our campsite.

We got ourselves something tasty to grill for the last evening and put a bottle of Cremant in the freezer!

So in the late afternoon we sit happily in front of our camper and sip the delicious Gremant. The vacation was a complete success and even exceeded our expectations. We have seen a lot and know that we still want to see a lot! YES, we'll be back!

The sun sets over the Meuse valley and finally goes swimming in the Meuse.

Wonderful! Good night and see you soon :-)